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Jeremy at
Base camp
Jeremy,Ryan.and Little karim in Concordia
motel in Skardu
Fun of real adventue rock climbing
Front of latok2
King of Karakoram little karim at Base camp of Latoks |
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Expedition to Latoq (July August 2007)
The group of our Expedition to Latok consists
of four members. On of them the leader of the group, Mr. Jeremy
Frimer from canada, Ken Glover from Canada, Ryan Hokanson from USA
and Sam Johnson for USA. The duration of expediti on and climbing
is 9th July to 15th of the
August 2007. This group to the peaks of
unnamed and of unclimbed guided Little Karim. And the peaks of the
height of 6500 meters.
The 9th July is a wonderful day that we happily received one of
our great climbers at Air Port Islamabad and three others at the
Daewo Bus Stand at Islamabad Rawalpindi.
On 10th July, because of Military Operation against Red Mosque (Lal
Masjid) we could not carry our journey so our members with Ibrahim
in hotel and in the evening all went to the Raja Bazar for
purchasing of required equipments and some other necessary thingse.
On the 11th July we started our journey by air to Skardur. At
Skardu air port, our welknown and famous guide as well as climber
Mr Little Karim very warmly received all our members and carried
them to Concordia Motel at Skardu the capital of Baltistan. All
the members enjoyed to see the beautiful mountain land of the
Skardu city .
On 12th July traveled Askoli and have very nice camping at there.
13th of July trek for Numla camp site. The night of 13th July was
very dark and it was raining all over night so one of our member
was feeling a little uncomfortable because of cozy, storming and
bad weather.
14th of July all members and porters trek for Shafong camp site.
15th of July two our members Jeremy Frimer and Ken want to stay at
camp because Ken feeling a little sick. Another two members, all
porters and guide trek for base camp of Latok 2 3/4.
On 16th of July all members reached at base camp and manage nice
camp. After the 16th of July all climber planned, on the day of
17th to 23rd, for training on a little rock on the base camp. They
see some rock peaks and valley. After that they all planned to
climb the Latok 2 ,3/4 6500 meters. this peak is unclimbed and
unnamed peak.
[for further information and updates please visit to
http://www.latoks07.blogspot.com/,
thank you]
About the climbers:
Jeremy Frimer (29) is PhD student at the
University of British Columbia in Vancouver.. He has made six
expeditions to Alaska and the St. Elias;Jeremy has climbed
extensively in Peru's Cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash. . In 2005,
Jeremy traveled to the Trango Valley of Pakistan, where he
succeeded in making the first ascent of Severance Ridge (ED2:
5.11, A2, M5, 1600m) on Trango II (6327m). The 65-pitch rock climb
was made in pure alpine style over the course of five days, the
last two of which were without food. This past summer, Jeremy
traveled to India, where he made the first ascent of Gateway
Ridge(TD-:5.9,1100m).
Sam Johnson (27) is finishing a Masters degree in Social
Work in Anchorage, Alaska, working in areas of Alzheimer’s and
Mental Health. .He has developed himself into a solid all-round
climber in quite few time.His most famous ascents are Smaug’s
Hoard (IV 5.10 R/X A2, Severance Ridge in Pakistan . Sam attempted
a new line on Mt. Aspiring in New Zealand, which featured run-out,
powerful mixed climbing to AI5 M7 R. The line was later completed
by Brits, becoming 24 Hour Party People (ED2 Scottish VII).
Ryan Hokanson (33) has been climbing for 17 years, during
which time he has acquired a diverse and extensive set of skills
that make him particularly suited for alpine rock climbing.
Besides his ascents like second ascent of Six Pack to the Summit
(V, WI4, M5, 3500'), expeditions in Alaska, numerous waterfall
classics 48 hour car to car ascent of the North East Buttress (V,
5.9, 4500') of Howse Peak, and an 17 hour hut to hut ascent of Mt.
Alberta's North East Ridge (V, 5.10x, 18 pitches), some of Ryan's
specialties are cycling, areobic fitness and moving fast on alpine
terrain .. Ryan has worked 9 seasons as a full time climbing guide
for Jackson Hole Mountain Guides and Alaska Mountaineering School.
He has worked the last 4 years as an Intensive Care Unit and
Emergency Room Registered Nurse. For more information see Ryan's
blog at
Ken Glover (33) is a geologist from Canmore, Alberta. When
not working, Ken is often sleeping. Ken began alpine climbing in
1992 and has been on climbing trips and expeditions throughout
Canada and the U.S. with some recent trips to Europe and Alaska.
Ken made the first ascent of a steep ice couloir on an unnamed
peak in northern India. He made the ascent solo; as he descended
by headlamp at night, the local villagers confused him for being a
terrorist. But in truth, he’s not one.
Another of Ken's pastimes is solo backcountry
distance running and skiing, having completed several wilderness
runs and ski tours of 30+ miles through alpine terrain, all
without a single blister.
Climber’s experience
Jeremy Frimer
Despite being in Pakistan in just the right
month (July), we encountered our fair share of the wrong weather.
Undeterred, Ken Glover and I (Jeremy Frimer) set our sights on
P5750, a rock peak near Latok II. Its south buttress presented a
1200m-rock line that we felt that we could climb in Alpine Style.
With 3 days worth of food and light bivy gear, we began up the
face. Our line of attack was devious! By wandering back and forth
along ramps, up chimneys, and broken crack systems we weaved our
way up the imposing wall. By the first night, we had climbed some
700m of the route, encountering nothing harder than 5.10-. Under
clear skies we slept (or lay with our eyes closed) until a cloudy
morning dawned. After soloing for several hundred meters of broken
terrain, we reached the final headwall on our line. It gave us
real problems as there didn't appear to be one last of our magical
ramps. Our third attempt finally worked as we followed a break to
reach a ridge, skirted behind a gendarme, and climbed the crux
pitch. Two pitches later, we were on the summit... as the snow
began to fall. With no other option presenting itself, we began a
rappel retreat down the route. We were shortly thereafter caught
by a snowstorm and had to spend a miserable night under a thin
tarp, waiting it out. By the next afternoon, we reached the base
after some 800m of rappelling. We had taken maximum advantage of
the brief weather window that we were given.
All the best,
Jeremy
 
Ken and sam purchasing in Raja bazar
Top of the peak.
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