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Hainabrak Karakoram

Simon Meis:

Climbing Resume
I have been
climbing for 15 years and have built my life around my love of
climbing and the mountains. My diverse climbing experience
includes the following:
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multiple 5.13+ red points, and 12+ on sights on sport and trad.
·
multiple WI6 ascents
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High altitude climbing, in both extended expedition style and
alpine style
This broad
experience base will be an asset in overcoming the challenges I
will encounter on our expedition.
I am becoming
an Assistant ACMG rock guide (status in limbo due to injury on
exam) and plan to continue in the ACMG stream to become a full
mountain guide. My guiding qualifications show that I possess the
technical skills required to complete our route. These skills
allow me to balancing a bold and committed style while ensuring
the safety of the expedition members.
For me good
partners are essential in the mountains. Much of my excitement for
our expeditions comes from my eagerness to share the experience
with Josh and Crosby. Our team brings together a diversity of
climbing and life experience and shared adventures that will be a
powerful asset in Pakistan.
Lately my
primary focus in the mountains has been alpine granite free
climbing. These routes lend themselves to a bold and committed
style, climbing quickly with a minimum amount of gear. I have
found that this style maximizes the adventure of an objective and
helps achieve an esthetic ascent…and it’s good fun. Our objective
in Pakistan represents an extension of my recent ascents in the
Bugaboos and Yosemite. It is also a major step up in commitment
and adventure. My palms are sweating just thinking about it, can’t
wait!
Below is a
list of some significant climbs in my climbing career, I have
chosen climbs that illustrate my diverse climbing experience and
high level of technical skills.
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Humble
Horse, Mt Diadem IV 5.7 WI4 |
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Columbia
Ice Fields, Rockies |
26 hours |
09/1999 |
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Mount
Cotapaxi |
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Equador |
8 hours |
12/2000 |
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The King
Trench – Mount Logan |
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St Elias
Mnts, Yukon |
30 day
expedition |
06/2000 |
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The Nose –
El Capitan V 5.10 C1 |
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Yosemite,
California |
22 hours |
05/2005 |
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Halfdome -
The Regular Route V 5.11+ |
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Yosemite,
California |
9 hours |
09/2006 |
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All Along
the Watch Tower ED2 5.12+ |
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N. Howser
Tower, Bugaboos, Purcells |
2 days |
08/2005 |
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Bad Hair
Day ED1 5.12- |
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S. Howser
Tower, Bugaboos |
14 hrs
camp to camp |
09/2006 |
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Under
Fire ED2 5.11 FFA |
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N.
Howser Tower, Bugaboos |
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2 days |
09/2006 |

Joshua Lavigne: Climbing Resume
My climbing
resume below outlines some of the more significant climbs in my
career. As you can see I have traveled the world to climb in such
areas as Nepal, France and South America. Also listed below are
the numerous ascents that I have done in the Bugaboos; my home
range. Here I have summitted the North Howser Tower 5 times via 3
different routes, most recently via a new route in 11.5 hrs. My
climbing style is oriented towards difficult free climbing with
minimal gear (no hauling) on large committing faces (primarily
granite) in a fast and bold style. I am inspired by the increased
commitment of climbing in remote and less traveled areas. I have
been to over 21 000ft in altitude and spent several months on
international expeditions. This variety of experience has
broadened my foundation as a climber and will ultimately give me
the knowledge and strength that I will need to succeed on such a
remote big wall.
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Lobuche
West Face D+ |
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Kumbu
Region, Nepal |
20 day
expedition |
05/2000 |
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Pokalde
West Ridge D |
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Kumbu
Region, Nepal |
20 day
expedition |
05/2000 |
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Poincenot,
Whillans Ramp SW Face ED1 5.10 AI 3 |
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Fitz Roy
Massif, Patagonia Argentina |
21 hrs |
01/2002 |
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Fitz Roy,
Franco Argentine Route ED 3 5.11+ AI 3 |
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Fitz Roy
Massif, Patagonia Argentina, |
24hrs
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01/2002 |
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Grande
Jorasse McIntyre Route ED3 M7 WI 5 |
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Mount
Blanc Massif, French Alps |
3 days |
12/2003 |
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The Drus,
Direct American ED2 5.12- |
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Mount
Blanc Massif, French Alps |
2 days |
10/2003 |
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Frendo
Spur TD+ 5.8 |
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Mount
Blanc Massif, French Alps |
14hrs |
10/2003 |
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Lotus
Flower Tower V 5.10+ |
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Cirque of
the Unclimbables, NWT |
17hrs |
07/2005 |
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All Along
the Watch Tower ED2 5.12+ |
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N. Howser
Tower, Bugaboos, Purcells |
19 hrs |
08/2005 |
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Bad Hair
Day ED1 5.12- |
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S. Howser
Tower, Bugaboos |
36h
canmore-canmore |
09/2006 |
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Under
Fire ED2 5.11 FFA |
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N. Howser
Tower, Bugaboos |
2 days |
09/2006 |
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Under
Fire ED2 5.11 2nd FA |
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N. Howser
Tower, Bugaboos |
15.5 h
from applebee |
09/2006 |
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North
Howser Tower
ED2
5.11+ C1 (1st 1 day ascent-FA of West Face)
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N. Howser
Tower, Bugaboos |
14.5h |
08/2007 |
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Personal Information
Simon Meis
#14 1530 7Ave, Canmore, Alberta, T1W 1R1
403-609-1796
sneakysimon@hotmail.com
Canadian
Climber Extraordinaire
Joshua Lavigne
#14 1530 7Ave, Canmore Alberta, T1W 1R1
403-609-5258
prana127@yahoo.com
Canadian
Fearless Alpine Machine
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