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Hainabrak Karakoram

 

 

 

Simon Meis:

 

 

Climbing Resume

I have been climbing for 15 years and have built my life around my love of climbing and the mountains. My diverse climbing experience includes the following:

·         multiple 5.13+ red points, and 12+ on sights on sport and trad.

·         multiple WI6 ascents

·         High altitude climbing, in both extended expedition style and alpine style

This broad experience base will be an asset in overcoming the challenges I will encounter on our expedition.

I am becoming an Assistant ACMG rock guide (status in limbo due to injury on exam) and plan to continue in the ACMG stream to become a full mountain guide. My guiding qualifications show that I possess the technical skills required to complete our route. These skills allow me to balancing a bold and committed style while ensuring the safety of the expedition members.

For me good partners are essential in the mountains. Much of my excitement for our expeditions comes from my eagerness to share the experience with Josh and Crosby. Our team brings together a diversity of climbing and life experience and shared adventures that will be a powerful asset in Pakistan.

Lately my primary focus in the mountains has been alpine granite free climbing. These routes lend themselves to a bold and committed style, climbing quickly with a minimum amount of gear. I have found that this style maximizes the adventure of an objective and helps achieve an esthetic ascent…and it’s good fun. Our objective in Pakistan represents an extension of my recent ascents in the Bugaboos and Yosemite. It is also a major step up in commitment and adventure. My palms are sweating just thinking about it, can’t wait! 

 Below is a list of some significant climbs in my climbing career, I have chosen climbs that illustrate my diverse climbing experience and high level of technical skills.

 

 
       

 Humble Horse, Mt Diadem IV 5.7 WI4

 

Columbia Ice Fields, Rockies

26 hours

09/1999

Mount Cotapaxi

 

Equador

8 hours

12/2000

The King Trench – Mount Logan

 

St Elias Mnts, Yukon

30 day expedition

06/2000

The Nose – El Capitan   V 5.10 C1

 

Yosemite, California

22 hours

05/2005

Halfdome - The Regular Route   V 5.11+

 

Yosemite, California

9  hours

09/2006

All Along the Watch Tower   ED2 5.12+

 

N. Howser Tower, Bugaboos, Purcells

2 days

08/2005

Bad Hair Day     ED1 5.12-

 

S. Howser Tower, Bugaboos

14 hrs camp to camp

09/2006

Under Fire    ED2 5.11   FFA

 

N. Howser Tower, Bugaboos

 

2 days

09/2006


 

 

 

Joshua Lavigne: Climbing Resume

 

My climbing resume below outlines some of the more significant climbs in my career. As you can see I have traveled the world to climb in such areas as Nepal, France and South America. Also listed below are the numerous ascents that I have done in the Bugaboos; my home range. Here I have summitted the North Howser Tower 5 times via 3 different routes, most recently via a new route in 11.5 hrs. My climbing style is oriented towards difficult free climbing with minimal gear (no hauling) on large committing faces (primarily granite) in a fast and bold style. I am inspired by the increased commitment of climbing in remote and less traveled areas. I have been to over 21 000ft in altitude and spent several months on international expeditions. This variety of experience has broadened my foundation as a climber and will ultimately give me the knowledge and strength that I will need to succeed on such a remote big wall.

 

 
       

 Lobuche West Face   D+

 

Kumbu Region, Nepal

20 day expedition

05/2000

Pokalde West Ridge   D

 

Kumbu Region, Nepal

20 day expedition

05/2000

Poincenot, Whillans Ramp SW Face   ED1 5.10 AI 3

 

Fitz Roy Massif, Patagonia Argentina

21 hrs

01/2002

Fitz Roy, Franco Argentine Route   ED 3 5.11+ AI 3

 

Fitz Roy Massif, Patagonia Argentina,

24hrs

01/2002

Grande Jorasse McIntyre Route   ED3 M7 WI 5

 

Mount Blanc Massif, French Alps

3 days

12/2003

The Drus, Direct American   ED2 5.12-

 

Mount Blanc Massif, French Alps

2 days

10/2003

Frendo Spur   TD+ 5.8

 

Mount Blanc Massif, French Alps

14hrs

10/2003

Lotus Flower Tower   V 5.10+

 

Cirque of the Unclimbables, NWT

17hrs

07/2005

All Along the Watch Tower   ED2 5.12+

 

N. Howser Tower, Bugaboos, Purcells

19 hrs

08/2005

Bad Hair Day     ED1 5.12-

 

S. Howser Tower, Bugaboos

36h canmore-canmore

09/2006

Under Fire    ED2 5.11   FFA

 

N. Howser Tower, Bugaboos

2 days

09/2006

Under Fire    ED2 5.11    2nd FA

 

N. Howser Tower, Bugaboos

15.5 h from applebee

09/2006

North Howser Tower    ED2 5.11+ C1   (1st  1 day ascent-FA of  West Face)

 

N. Howser Tower, Bugaboos

14.5h

08/2007

         

 

Personal Information

 

Simon Meis

#14 1530 7Ave, Canmore, Alberta, T1W 1R1

403-609-1796

sneakysimon@hotmail.com

Canadian

Climber Extraordinaire

 

Joshua Lavigne

#14 1530 7Ave, Canmore Alberta, T1W 1R1

403-609-5258

prana127@yahoo.com

Canadian

Fearless Alpine Machine

  

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