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The Trango Towers are dramatic and adventurous group of rocks located on the north side of Baltro Glacier, in Skardu a district of the Gilgit Baltistan of Pakistan. These Towers presents very adventurous, challenging rock climbing in the world therefore great patience and strong determination needed while daring to summit the group. The routes are highly technical due to combination of steepness of the rock, altitude of the peak and weather condition of the location. The highest peak of the group known as the GREAT TRANGO is about 6,296m or 20,608ft. There are group of towers namely; The Trango Great, The Trango Nameless, Trango Monk, Trango II (6,327 m) Trango Pulpit (6,050m), Trango Castle (5,753 m) and some other small but challenging rocks are part of this group.
Trango have the following Rock peaks.
Trango Ri (I) 6452 meters
Trango Ri (II) 6515 meters
Trano Ri (III) 6300 meters
Trango Ri (IV) 6300 meters
Great Trango (I) 6286 meters
Great Trango (II) 6237 meters
Great Trango (III) 6231 meters
Nameless Tower 6239 meter
Series Name : Trango Towers Range : Karakoram Pakistan
Base Altitude : 3400 Meters Zone : Restractes
Duration : 30 Days Best Time : May To September
The peaks have been climbed several times in the past.The Trango Great was first climbed in 1977 by Galen Rowell, John Roskelley, Kim Schmitz, Jim Morrissey and Dennis Hennek by a route which started from the west side (Trango Glacier). The east face of the Great Trango is the world’s tallest vertical face and was first climbed in 1984 by the Norwegians Hans Christian Doseth and Finn Dæhli, both died on the descent. The first successful climbed from this face was done in 1992 by Xaver Bongard and John Middendorf, Trango The Nameless Tower was first climbed in 1976 by British climber Joe Brown, Mo Anthoine, Martin Boysen, and Malcolm Howells. There are almost eight routes to the summit and one of the famous route is known as Eternal Flame. The West summit of the Great Trango and Trango Pulpit were climbed in 1999 by two separate teams, one American and one Russian. Some recent ascents on the Great Trango have been done by using some longer routes. Josh Wharton and Kelly Cordes completed a new, very long (2,256 meter/7,400 ft) route on the Southwest Ridge in 2004. Although the climb was not very technical from this route but notable thing is that it was done with lightweight and fast style. In 2005 two Slovak climbers Gabo Cmarik and Jozef Kopold climbed with a new route, in 7 days, which they named Assalam Alaikum, on the south face of Great Trango. This climb was also used lightweight style as similar to that of Wharton and Cordes. In the same year Samuel Johnson, Jonathon Clearwater and Jeremy Frimer made the first climb of the southwest ridge of the Trango II. In mid August of 2009, Alexander and Thomas Huber climbed Eternal Flame.
Day 01 Arrival at Islamabad airport and Transfer to Hotel overnight in Hotel.
Day 02 Briefing at Ministry of Tourism or Alpine club of Pakistan
Day 03 Drive for Chilas via karakoram Highway (KKH) sight seeing all along the rout with the company of Indus river of Pakistan. Indus flows from Tibet Indian portion overnight hotel at Chilas.
Day 04 Drive to Skardu sight seeing the junction of three famous ranges of the world Himaliya, Hindukash & Karakoram overnight Hotel at Skardu City.
Day 05 Drive to Askoli the last inhabitance on our way to the Great Baltoro Glaciers out side the polar region Overnight Camp at Askoli Village.
Day 06 Early morning first day of trek Askoli village to Jula campsite towards the high mountains of the world overnight camp.
Day 07 Trek along the Braldu River towards the famous Bahordas peak among the trekkers. From the payu campsite we can see the Baltoro Glacier. Overnight camp
Day 08 early morning start trek towards Base Camp of Trango towers. Overnight at Base camp
Day 9-24 15 days Climbing activities at Great Trango or Trango Towers.
Day 25- 27 Trek back to Jula campsite overnight Camp.
Day 28 Trek to Askoli Village some hours rest & lunch at Askoli village then Drive to Skardu overnight hotel at Skardu.
Day 29 Drive from Skardu to Chilas overnight at Hotel in Chilas.
Day 30 Departure.